‘Fashion has to push the boundaries of creativity.’
That’s the message Angela Missoni passed on the first day
of the Milano Fashion Week F/W 09.10.

Lots of layering and textures in nudes,
pearly pink, peach, aqua greens, eggshell blue,

chocolate browns, and dove grey
with effervescent strands of sparkle weaved throughout.

The short over the long with a light appearance though.
Brilliant gold chains are also key,
sparkling throughout the collection.

And escaping from playing it safe,
very subtle Missoni signature knit patterns kept this season.

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& finally yesterday the action shifts to Milan.
We have not seen many catwalks so far but...
we have already 'Mochino's presents'
I have decided to name them this way because
they look like a ribbon or bow wrapping the dresses
and models.

Ruffles emerging all around, trompe l'oeil prints...
all the humour and surrealism
a brand as Moschino has got us used to.



It is the beginning of a week that has just started.

Let's keep an eye at it!

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Angled shoulder lines, mesh tees
biker items, beads and metal spikes
are the result of the punky-rock-chic .
with hard-edged 80s fusion of Julien Macdonald.

He has decided to let aside his signature high-octane glamour
for a style tather moe edgy this season.
Grey palette.

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I couldn't stand without showing you one of the classical ones:
Aquascutum.
It was all about texture and a painterly palette.
& the genial idea of Michael Herz of
turning off the lights and
design in the dark.
He decided to do it that way with the goal
of focus on textures.
The house check together with a play on volume
were protagonists of the show.
He opened the archive of the heritage of the house
& started creating.
The result:
the amazing textures, memories of the 80s
over a tasteful palette
which dared to introduce splashes of
red and mustard yellow.


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One of my favourite looks so far
(apart of showing you Luella in the previous pic)
is the one you can see by Vivienne Westwood.

She can be really extreme for me
but this time, under the theme
Ronald Serale's infamous St Trinian's -
cue school girl mayhem
she has dressed up mannequins as
school girls willing to get out of school
to rework their uniforms into 'wearable looks'.

Even if it is not the most representative of the class
I do love this one from head to toe!
Lovely knitwear pieces.


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While analysing NY runway
London catwalks are running.
Some of the favourites have already
shown their collections along with
more experimental designers
who continue to push the boundaries.

Touches of punk and small details remind the 80s
even if romanticism and glamour show up.
As in NY, I can breathe a more youthful
and edgy atmosphere this season.

Don’t you agree?



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what about thigh-high mini-crinis?
Despite having seen so many pencil
dresses and skirts,
it is time to play again for short full silhouettes.

It look like designers bet on 80s!

...

The power of shoulders &
flamboyance of the 80s.
Far away from being a subdued collections
NY catwalks pretend to be funny & positive.

Exaggerated shoulder-lines, puffed sleeves,
leg-of-mutton shaping, jutting pleats
and extended flanges
go for a more architectural silhouette.


Let’s get some shoulder pads!

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The 80s, its prints and its splashy colours
stamp its mark of optimism on NY catwalks.
Seductive qualities of velvet, satin
plus brocade and jacquards try to recover
the luxury of past seasons.
A relaxed and comfortable silhouette goes
with the mood of the moment
and reminds me the sporty atmosphere of that decade.
Grey keeps on being on the podium
even if yellows, violets and pinks try to buck it down.



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Many things and nothing else to say.
The iconically American shows a luxury collection
as we are used to.

Shredded fox jackets and coats
in acid green, neon pink and caution orange.

Since timeless and seasonless are buzzwords for Kors,
tailoring is a focus once again.

Furthermore, this season, Kors cut a more sculptural
and architectural silhouette than ever.


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One day afterwards…
the youngest of his collections:
marc by Marc Jacobs.

80s-ish influences for a confused schoolgirl
who used to be halfway between preppy & retro.

I can breathe nostalgia when looking at
the neck scarves and bowler hats
or the cosy shawls, tweed trousers,
paisley dresses, plaid skirts and corduroy shorts.

But the rebellious spirit pops up with those
striped leggings and electric-hued tights.
Socks peeking out toggle boots for extra colour pop
plus coloured taffetas and gold zippers
add a dose of all-important shine.


Do you wanna shine?



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I had to wait to see the show.
It was compulsory to wait for him,
it could not be other way!

&…Marc Jacobs seizes me again!
He rejects the subdued elegance of past seasons
to show the ‘punky’ style of the 80s
mixed up with the glamour of that decade.

It is more than evident the influence
of punk icon Stephen Sprouse
has made an impression on Jacobs.
Quite obvious since LV is currently
selling a Sprouse-inspired collection.

Vibrant clashing looks veered from
the swirling patterns of crystal-studded leggings,
to polka dots, baroque patterned metallic brocade,
colourful netting, black lace and fan-pleated velvet.

Glowy colours, jutting angles, pleats and puffs go for
an irreverent message that pretends to lift your mood!


Have a look at the whole collection.
Has Marc succeeded?

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YSL unisex collection

I cannot stop looking at the collection!
I'm kind of obsessed!

Smart-suits inspired by YSL's iconic
Le Smoking tux of the sixties,
pastel cardigans, chic trenches,
high-waisted shorts and silk trousers.

Androgyny has got a new meaning!

I show you one of my favorite looks
The one with overlapped t-shirts,
high-waisted skirt & the jacket!!!


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Taking advantage of the NY Fashion Week
Stefano Pilati pays homage to YSL's first collections.
He has crafted his first unisex collection for YSL.

They are just beautiful combination of what you
can find digging through your boyfriend’s closet
if you’re lucky and he likes the brand.
Otherwise you can find it here.

Edition Unisex Pop-up
55 Great Jones, at Bowery
Through February 21
Open daily, noon- 7 p.m.

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you rather talk to yourself than to anybody else?
Such a detailed collection that
it worths watching it twice!

You can enjoy
sequins and paillette flowers
scattered across party separates
and dresses.

I do like this elegant picture
lying on the sofa.

Pay attention to the cosmetique palette!

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The most eye-catching shoes on the runway!
Special, maybe a bit unexpected,
they are already being touted as THE SHOE of 2009

Don’t you wanna cage your feet this summer?

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YSL - Spring/Summer 2009 Manifesto from official ysl on Vimeo.





There's no better present
to give on this date
than such a production

YSL introducing its
Manifiesto SS 2009.

Enjoy it!


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Gold, bronze, metallic...
python, pixels prints...
everything goes but
the sophistication of the Prada girls
reaches the top!

Artfully rumpled clothes draped over bodies,
brassiere-style tops ,
hip-hugging pencil skirts
and awkward skyscraper heels
dressed this dishevelled chic Prada woman.

...

I couldn't resist...
Amazing Prada!
As usual so perfect.

The range of sculptural shoes
coordinated with the engineered crumpled dresses
painted in all this matching and subtly shades.
They have all definitely got an attitude!

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But among those colours all around
I have found a really discret palette
at the Vogue Italia cover.
(January 2009)

The editorial is called Form Function
and it has been potographed by Steven Meisel.
Works by Zaha Hadid.

It illustrates how fashion and architecture
influence each other.

Subtly tonal colours sophisticatedly mixed
make me think of the materials
and clothing shapes of the urban industrial aesthetic.

It makes me think somehow of designers
as Pierre Cardin or Courreges foretelling the future,
a future that it's now and here!



...







He always looked at future
and... his future is here now!

checks, flowers, cotton, gauze, guipure, pearls…
yellow, red black, blue …

What should I wear?
I’m mixed up now!

Even if I have confirmed that Paul Smith's inspiration
this summer was Turkey and the Middle East,
I do actually realize that he cannot
completely leave the green grass of home.


A hint of prairie girl came through
with this gingham dress and prints of flowers
looking like an apron in the middle of the countryside.

...

Champagne golds,
silvery greys, scarab darks,
pewter and burnished coppers
add the newness to collections.

Subtly gleaming iridescent finishes are the key for summer.
But this look doesn’t need to be full-on!
Metallics are much more sophisticated when used with
surprising colours and pastel shades.


Really tempting!


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The girl who has turned the fashion world upside down
thanks to her negative attitude, her gappy teeth and curves
shot here by Hedi Slimane.


She describes herself as grumpy and moody
because of her shyness.
Just a big wuss and a big geek.
As a lover, not a fighter.

Unable to walk in high heels, she hates catwalk and thinks
it is better to appear naked than wearing really tight corsets.
A girl with attitude.

Lara's shape is loud & proud!

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Neo Vuitton

Why do I remind you SS?
Coz' in stores now is Marc Jacobs' new, limited-edition Sprouse-Vuitton collection.
A homage to the late artist, Jacobs, who collaborated with Sprouse to give Louis Vuitton its turnaround in spring 2001, says he incorporated some of the "icons and lasting aesthetics that Stephen left in the fashion world".

Sprouse turned the old-world luxury icon Louis Vuitton into a Pop Art collectible for the young fashion elite.
He was able to turn something iconic and venerable, something respected and old, making it new again by defacing it.

I find his rebellious aesthetic more than inspirational.


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but it's not all flora and fauna in this jungle,
wild animals are aalso around...

Closing my eyes I would directly think of Cavalli
but travelling back in time Stephen Sprouse comes to my mind.
Don't you remember a 'cavallian' Courtney Love dressed in a dainty
Sprouse's leopard inspiration handkerchief?


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and in between all the flora and fauna
I've found myself in the middle of the jungle!
Tropical foliage provides the backdrop for a jungle vibe.
Loads of glamour with a subtle but sophisticated tribal look.
Greens, browns and bright colours as purples, blues...
A highly stylised safari full of colour!
let's keep our trip through the jungle!



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hing a little bit further
the sensual banqueting of Agent Provocateur,
surounded by fruits & flowers and
set in glamorous athmosfere
as if we were living in the ancient Greece!
Are we maybe coming back to ancient times
because 'they are alwasys better'?



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and just a bit darker but
keeping those green colours of the garden...
a princess who belongs to a tale,
a woman hidden, avoiding someone, escaping from something
or whom has just had an argument with her boyfriend?
a particularly unnerving manner of unveiling
the secrets of the characters of the spring/summer 09


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I cannot forget the marvelous garden girls
portraying the Burberry English taste.
A simple scenario,
an overrun greenhouse,
full of rich materials andgentle shades.


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It looks like vegetation is all around this season
in both garments and campaigns.
The Mochino Cheap & Chic,
shown on the picture,
which portrays a sense of simple yet luxurious pastimes.
The Marc Jacobs campaign, shown one of its pictures yesterday,
turning out a pair of shoes into a new kind of berry
just to be eaten!


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and among the marvelous shoes we can find this season...
this pair of Marc Jacobs come out.
Cherry colour for an amazing shape!


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